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How to change the Lockring and Cog on a Fixed-Gear Bike

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Are you looking to take your steed a little quicker quickly? Or perhaps you would like to dial the gear down to make it simpler for those travel climbs? In the post today, we’re going to swap a cog and get everything perfect for you!

Smaller or bigger
Let’s take our new cog first. You will want fewer teeth onto your new cog if you want to raise your speed and provide yourself some extra miles per hour before your legs spin out. You want a gear with more teeth than your present one if you want to make it easier to get off the road from a stop or “flatten off.” Count down what you have now, ensure that you are all right skid-patch-wise (when you have a lot of leg-locking) and pick up the upgrade you like!

Remove the ratchet
To the good things, now! First of all, the locking must be removed to get us to the cog. Capture and twist your trustworthy locking wrench! Note that the locking is reversed to retain the cog when you’re breaking so that it may be removed from clockwise (right-facing).

Fixed gear cyclist with tattoos white shirt and headphones riding a black and red fixed gear bike without brakes - why fixed gear bikes don't have brakes
Fixed Gear Cyclist With Tattoos Riding A Black And Red Fixed Gear Bike

Once it’s taken away, hold it close and let the cog go!

Old Cog Remove
If you have a chain whip, it will be incredibly easy for you to extract the cog, just twist this puppy in the opposite direction (left) to slide right out of the pit! No problem – rotafix this sucker if you don’t have a chain whip!

Start by removing your string from the bottom bracket and let it hang out.

Now, scoop up the pulse, pin the chain and draw the two sides up and down on the pulley. Something like the pictures below you should look at, and you will find that spinning the wheel back will lock the chain (and put the counter-clockwise torque on the rod.

Now just put a shove or three on the wheel to overcome the cog’s tightness. Boom, cog off! Boom, cog off!

New Cog Install
Basically, we’re just going to reverse the last process to get the new cog there. Hit the train and the hub threads with blue Loctite to keep everything tight as soon as you go up and twist them (right-tighty) in the clockwise direction to get there.

Now, in order to tighten it down, we will reverse the rotafix procedure. Collect the chain underneath the pin and rotate it until the pin is locked.

Then make sure that it’s locked tight.  The last thing you’d want is to slow down a traveling cog (and a loose cog can strip your hub, making you have to get new wheels as well).

When it’s tight, we only have to get the lock on, and all of us are set!

Restore the locking system.
Take the clamps and lock them with a great path. Apply a small blue Loctite to your threads so that you may put all in one spot and twist them!

Remember, this is the reverse thread so that it snugs it back up in the opposite direction (left-right). Lean in it because, again, if you’re on the road, you don’t want things to shift around.

Return to Rock

Pop on, tension the chain, hit the road! Pop up your wheel. You may want to carry your first ride locking wrench since you’ll pull the gear a bit tighter on your pedals sometimes, and you’ll just want to pause and tighten the locking down to the cog. This is because your legs are stronger than even the worst rotafix. Therefore a jam on the pedals might tighten your buckle even tighter on the hub. However, no worryis — you’re ready. Back up the locking and enjoy the new equipment!

Who’s going to race now?

Author avatar - Bradley Knight

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